Looking at Pantone’s color forecast for fall 2015 makes me want to eat curry. Herbs and spices are on the menu, along with earthy bright colors. Every color looks like it was selected from a Moroccan rug. My August theme is a tribute to this savory fall palette:
Did you ever carve the smooth-cut face of a raw potato, ink it up and stamp prints with it? Same idea as block printing, only in my experience, the potato is a sorry mess before you can say French Fry. Block printing, using durable stamp surfaces, still must take incredible patience and skill.
Block printing
Hand-printing method, using carved wooden or linoleum blocks.
From Fabric Sewing Guide by Claire Schaeffer. Krause Publications, Cincinnati, 2008. Used by permission.
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| Hand block printing in process, courtesy of Rubina Magazine |
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| Block printed cotton gauze from India ©Vintage Fashion Guild, photo by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain |
Right now in my Etsy shop you can see the fabric from which I shot the close up, in its finished form.
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| 1970s dress by Anokhi - Jaipur India |
This Treacy Lowe - London dress was also made in India in the 1970s, this time in block-printed silk.
If you have a patterned knit (not printed, but patterned by the design of the yarns used), you have a jacquard knit. Think 1970s and 80s rainbow heart sweaters...among many other items from the 1960s, 70s and 80s. A jacquard knit may also be a patterned hand knit.
Jacquard knit
Either a single or double knit made with a pattern on its face, achieved with jacquard controls on a knitting machine. Any yarn may be used.
The single knit jacquard will have floats across its back, while the back of a double knit jacquard will have a birdseye pattern.
See also: Double knit, Jacquard, woven, Jersey
Nylon double knit jacquard, face
Nylon double knit jacquard, reverse ©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain, photo by Hoyt Carter
Right now I have this 1960s polyester and lamé double knit jacquard dress in my Etsy shop:
Yesterday I explained that from time to time I get some really lovely feedback from people about denisebrain, and I save these in a special folder to read when I’m feeling low. This is the second group of notes from my favorites folder.
Your photos seem like more than photos to me. Each of your photos looks like a stand still scene from a fun or interesting event.
❤︎
It is fun to go shopping there, every item has a story and she tells it well. She is as happy and cheerful as she looks in all her presentations, shows a real love for what she does, and this spills over into the sweet considerate way she treats her customers.
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| available from thespectaclednewt on Etsy |
Margaret, quick story: received 2 packages today—put the yellow top on, did not notice stain; put box on back porch. Other package—was overcharged, etc. and telling my husband about it got out your box to show him, by contrast, how nicely packaged and personal yours was, compared to other, which was crammed in re-used envelope that seller had not even taken her own papers from. As I was showing Rush your sweet little box, sticker, etc., I saw note and money. I want to write a story, “A Tale of Two Sellers” in which you are the star! Thanks for being so honest and generous. The world needs more folks like you!
❤︎
I just saw this great jacket and when I read the listing I wanted to let you know that I appreciate your accurate descriptions very much. You are so honest about any condition issues and detailed with your pics it’s wonderful to see a seller like you. Some time ago I bought a dress from you—it was in fantastic condition and I was positively surprised as the tiny “flaws” you mentioned turned out to be even less visible. Thanks again and all the best for you!
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| available from TheHammersmith on Etsy |
Maggie is a true vintage expert, she knows what we like, and she sends every one of my items in excellent, wrinkle-free, smell-free, fresh condition! I am always waiting in such anticipation when I order something from denisebrain, and I have never ever been disappointed, Thank you Maggie, for the wonderful store keeper/entrepreneur/and just STERLING person that you are to us.
Believe me, the feeling is mutual; there are so many sterling personalities out there that make my business a joy!
My business is now in its 17th year, and between my years on Ebay, then Etsy, public comments and personal notes, I have received a lot of feedback from both customers and colleagues, thankfully mostly good.
I save out and cherish some of the best feedback I’ve received, the kind of feedback that can lift me when my business (or life!) is in a slump. I hope you don’t mind my sharing some of these.
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| available from ElGranero on Etsy |
I love your pics Maggie - you always give the impression of living in a beautiful, kind and glamorous world.
❤︎
I like denisebrain because she has a distinct, individual and funky flavor…and she seems to invite everyone else in for the fun, instead of trying to be cooler than her buyers.
❤︎
One can easily put herself in place of denisebrain and imagine stepping out on the town.
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| available from Tranksandtravels on Etsy |
Honestly one of the best (& nicest) vintage dealers around & exactly the kind of seller we should all strive to be! Beautiful merch, customer service beyond all expectations, exceptional attention to detail & a huge heart—a percentage of her sales goes to very worthy causes. I’m a huge fan!
❤︎
You are one of the truly rare people that touches folks right down to their hearts with just a smile. And what is truly wonderful is that your gracious spirit and concern for people is genuine. Your surprise at this honor just makes it all the more sweet. On top of that all of your hard work and attention to detail show your true character.
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| available from DriftNiceties on Etsy |
Even if you just need a mood lifter, window shopping at denisebrain will always bring a smile and thoughts of long gone eras. She makes us all realize we CAN turn back the clock to a brighter, classier, simpler time.
❤︎
I always check out what denisebrain is selling—she makes vintage look fresh, modern, classy and FUN!
❤︎
sizing is dead on perfect, shipping and communication: best ever!!!
❤︎
Class Act, fabulous personality, exquisite/exciting clothing, unsurpassed service
❤︎
Always a great source for vintage finds! Weekly shopping here is a must!
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| available from RetroandRevamped on Etsy |
Is that you modeling your own stuff? Okay, now I have to hate you...except, I can’t. You look like you’re having too much fun and feel so pretty, and it’s contagious! Makes me smile just looking at you.
❤︎
You have really inspired me. I came away from your site so happy! It was fun, thoughtful and very interesting, and I love pink! I have had a difficult time this week with new bidders and was about to give up—“I know you do not take returns because it doesn’t fit but your feedback will reflect my feelings” kind of totally awful stuff. Your listings were so refreshing and I loved the little monthly videos—adorable, and they made me laugh! So, I’m not quitting and I owe you all the credit, you really made MY day! When I get down from now on I am going to just go browse around your store for a few minutes and I’m sure it will pick me right back up!
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| available from Mom2Will4Real on Etsy |
Hi! I buy quite a lot of vintage from the US but I really need to send a heartfelt personal “thank you” for the most beautifully presented, carefully packaged piece I’ve ever received! The time taken by you in treating this dress so tenderly has the effect of sprinkling fairy dust over it for the recipient—it’s really special! Just wanted to let you know that your superlative service is much appreciated and makes a huge difference.
❤︎
I am such a huge fan of vintage and one picky dame about it as well. I just wanted to say I LOVE how your site is arranged, how you do your photos, the whole sh’bang is just so pretty and girly and well thought out. I love marketing and visuals and all that and you present such a lovely, polished front!...So, you need to know that I got so giddy and happy looking at your site and clothes and can’t wait ‘til I’m back up on my feet (recent new career path impeding my vintage shopping). Looking at your site gives me extra motivation, because I love nothing in the world more than vintage clothes!
❤︎
Your descriptions of your vintage items are charming and accurate. You clearly are very knowledgeable and have an excellent sense of style, across all the different decades from which you hand pick these lovely outfits. I truly appreciate the service you provide and am 100% behind your eloquent “Why Wear Vintage” article. Don’t have a question. Just
wanted to voice some admiration.
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| available from ElGranero on Etsy |
Maggie runs this shop as if her customers were her family, working hard to bring the best vintage “lost treasures” to we lucky buyers. She does not stop there. These items have to be in the best condition possible, washed or dry cleaned, wrinkles to a minimum and no horrid odors...That’s why Maggie is so refreshing, because she puts a lot of effort into her clothes and great, cheerful service. She means what she says about her treasures being “top drawer,” she would wear them herself. She goes to great lengths to put as much information about each and every item as possible in the description, that makes her store so fun and interesting to browse through!
And what a fashion plate! The authentic presentation of these clothes complete with all the fashion accessories of the day bring out the true beauty of what you are buying. This gorgeous and romantic blouse was neatly folded, wrapped in tissue and beautifully boxed with designer pink ribbon, that surpassed any fine department store wrap. She takes pride in all she does for us, and I am proud to be her customer. First class all the way!
A little feedback from me to you: WOW. Thank you each so much for making what I do feel noticed and appreciated, and then taking the time to tell me with such personality and eloquence.
Some more of my favorite feedback tomorrow; thank you for indulging me!
If you’ve ever thought a fabric felt like a sheet, you might have had your hands on percale. The exact definition will help you be sure:
Percale
A cotton or a cotton/poly blend fabric, percale is a balancedplain weave with a smooth hand and no luster. It can be limp to relatively crisp depending on the finish. It is finer and has a higher thread count than muslin.
Uses: Sheets, shirts, dresses, children’s clothing, pajamas
See also:
©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain, photo by Hoyt Carter
Right now I have a lightweight poly/cotton blend percale tent dress from the late 1960s or early 70s—so summery!
Just in time for my July theme:
I would be surprised if anyone hasn’t heard of gingham. I first new of it at a very young age from the Eugene Field poem “The Duel” (better known as “The Gingham Dog and the Calico Cat”).
Gingham has had an almost constant popularity in the warm months because of its cotton fiber, lighter weight and crisp checks. Of all fabrics, it might say summer most loud and clear.
Gingham
A light to medium weight balanced plain weave fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend, gingham is most characteristically one color with white in even checks, called gingham checks. Tissue (very lightweight) gingham can have corded edges between the colors (see crossbar dimity).
The name gingham is thought to come from the Malay ging-gang, meaning “striped.”
Uses: Dresses, blouses, house dresses, aprons, pajamas
See also: Check, Crossbar dimity, Shepherd’s check
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| ©Vintage Fashion Guild - Text by Margaret Wilds/denisebrain, photo by Hoyt Carter |
This 1950s dress and wrap is of gingham check cotton:
There’s always plenty to find in vintage gingham, no need to go with anything new! (If I do say so myself!) Gingham in my Etsy shop.
No way around it, it’s hot. Here in Spokane the mercury is climbing to over 95º F day after day. It was 107º a few days ago, and chez denisebrain we are thankful for ceiling fans and a house with tall trees around it since we don’t have air conditioning. Oh, and we LOVE ice water.
And vintage!
Staying on trend and in vintage is not a problem this summer, starting with the most obvious of vintage-inspired modern trends, gingham.
Choose a gingham check in 100% cotton for the crispest, coolest look and feel. I love this picnic-y dress from SmallEarthVintage:
Shorts, especially the skirt-y, high-waisted type from the 1940s. These are not very easy to come by, but they are worth it for the pure flattery. This pair from NiftyLunch is the sort I mean:
A short kimono-style robe is easy to wear, on trend and amenable to lounging, going out, the beach... There are many vintage options along this line, including genuine antique Japanese haori in silk if elegance is what you’re after. This 1970s wrap from NewOldFashionVintage would make a great cover up and has sleeves short enough to allow you to make breakfast in it too:
Try the natural air conditioning of crochet. Crochet is having a big moment right now and you can avoid cliché with an unusual vintage item. This beautiful Edwardian blouse is available from TrunkofDresses:
Another big modern trend that can be interpreted very effectively with real vintage is the cropped top. OffBroadwayVintage has this cropped top with another great vintage choice for summer, a full skirt. Think about it: Only the waist is going to be fitted with this skirt, the rest is pure breeze catcher. The amazing outfit is 1950s-vintage, hand-painted cotton from Mexico:
Some of my absolute favorite summer vintage items are not necessarily part of any current trend, but I couldn’t do without my paper parasol (I get sick of dumping on the sunscreen) and my c1960 Ray-Bans. Jessica of No Accounting for Taste says that it isn’t summer without her 1940s novelty print day dress and a big sunhat. Isabelle’s summer vintage favorites are her 1950s swimsuit and her 70s Guy Laroche sundress, perfect for a picnic. —All great vintage ways to approach summer!
I recently wrote this post about starting up an online vintage clothing business. The stats say that lots of people have read it, some have shared it. A couple people have quit following my blog since they read it, perhaps coincidentally, perhaps not. No one commented on it directly.
Did I scare you? I have to admit, I meant to. Even though I’m a nice enough person, tough love seemed in order. I have discussed with many a vintage seller the business of selling online, and I can honestly say that it isn’t for the faint of heart. It requires a lot of hard work, patience, knowledge, resources (time, money and information), creativity and passion.
I didn’t make much of all the love you can have for this job. I figure you wouldn’t be reading the post if you didn’t have a fondness for the idea of your own vintage business, or at least a curiosity about it. Loving vintage fashion is the easy part.
I wrote a post to say that the business of selling vintage clothing isn’t easy.
It seems like nearly everybody’s selling vintage now, or knows someone who is. I have read posts like Getting Rich at Home and Top Online Business Opportunities that mention vintage clothing. Maybe you’ve read some of these too? You’d think vintage clothing was a get-rich-quick scheme! (Would that it were!)
Whew, now that I’ve got that off my chest I can be a bit more encouraging in a future post!
It’s been awhile since I had a Fabric of the Week post, but it’s back for a return engagement as I add definitions to the VFG Fabric Resource.
Cotton has been a part of the Resource for awhile but somehow I just didn’t get around to posting it in my blog. Maybe it seemed too humble? With temperatures in my area at 100º+ this week, it will be my best friend!
There’s never a shortage of vintage cotton wear in my shops, including these cooling frocks:
Cotton has been a part of the Resource for awhile but somehow I just didn’t get around to posting it in my blog. Maybe it seemed too humble? With temperatures in my area at 100º+ this week, it will be my best friend!
Cotton
Cotton is a fiber obtained from the cotton plant, a bushy plant of the genus Gossypium. The cotton fiber grows from the seeds of the plant in the seed pods, called bolls. The fiber, which is 90% cellulose, is naturally fine, soft, fluffy and absorbent. The length of a cotton fiber can vary from under 1/2" to over 2" with the longest fibers being the most desirable for fabric production. Cotton fiber is usually cream-colored, but also may be grown in green or brown. The cotton plant grows best in tropical and sub-tropical environments.
The history of cotton literally parallels the history of civilization. Evidence of isolated civilizations growing cotton and creating fabric from its fiber dates its domestication to at least 4500 B.C.E. in both the Americas and South Asia.
There’s never a shortage of vintage cotton wear in my shops, including these cooling frocks:
Vintage clothing is a wonderful thing, and if you want to work to provide it for others I applaud you. Of course I feel that way because that is what I do—and I love what I do.
I started my online vintage clothing business in 1999, inspired by the 1970s and 80s brick and mortar vintage shops that I had frequented. I was new to the internet in the late 90s and as I became somewhat known in the world of vintage on this platform, I had requests for tips on selling and on running a vintage fashion business. The people asking were usually not casual here-and-there sellers, but people striving to earn at least a partial living at it. There weren’t so many of us then.
I used to have a fairly short—though not simple—list of suggestions. It went something like this:
1. Know everything you can about the items you are selling. Do not bluff if you don’t know something, but research labels, fabrics, fashion history and whatever else you need to be able to write with some confidence and accuracy about items.
2. Provide detailed garment measurements.
3. Photograph and describe each and every more-than-miniscule flaw.
4. If you’re just starting, price accordingly. Carefully research the higher and lower ends and don’t expect to be a high-end seller if you are new to the field. Save your exceptional items for a time when you are more established.
5. Always be polite, clear and prompt in dealing with any questions from customers and potential customers.
6. Ship as quickly as possible—within 48 hours is expected.
7. The customer is always right, even if they might not be. Always give them the benefit of the doubt and treat them with respect and kindness.
8. Don’t buy vintage items for resale because they are inexpensive, buy them because they are really good.
Then I started adding in:
9. Don't be lazy in the least. If there is something that you can do to help a garment you are selling, do it.
10. Become an expert at mending and washing/cleaning; find the best dry cleaner in your area, and also a great seamstress if you are not one yourself.
11. Generate enthusiasm for your items by writing helpful, interesting and knowledgeable descriptions.
12. Find the best, most efficient selling methods and use those.
13. Strive to connect to buyers through social media, online and offline contacts.
14. Offer an explicit return policy, and detail all your shop policies clearly and politely.
15. Do not expect quick results. Be patient and build your brand.
Now there are millions of vintage clothing sellers all over the world, many of them doing a very good job. What you need to do to stand out will by necessity be more involved. I would have to add the following to the above:
16. Use professional quality branding (the quality of which is not always based on a price paid).
17. Develop a social media strategy and keep it up consistently.
18. Make sure your photos are detailed, beautiful and accurate. If using a live model, be sure they are pro or very talented at portraying your brand. There are various ways to do lighting, but whatever your choice, it needs to be excellent.
19. Join and participate in appropriate forums.
20. Find strategic and memorable ways to differentiate your business in a crowded field.
21. Be extremely competitive in sourcing vintage items to offer for sale.
22. Do detailed market research and study analytics.
23. Find a good selling venue and be ready to jump to others if needed.
24. Do not assume a website will be found on search engines without very specific protocols being addressed.
25. Always keep your ears and eyes open for what people want from you, and how their preferences intersect with what you can provide.
26. Your business is not you, it is your business. Think and act for your business not according to your own feelings, but rather your brand’s identity.
You may not be able to go it alone, in fact, hardly anyone can now. The people you may have to hire once, part- or full-time are a model, a photographer, a website builder, a tech person, a marketing person, an accountant, and a designer. You will probably have to make substantial investments, such as in inventory, photo set up, storage, software, cleaning and mending, marketing and packaging materials. You will need to study and stay up-to-date on not only vintage fashion topics but business and marketing topics.
Do I follow my own advice? Sometimes! Some things are easier for me than others, but these are the things I honestly see from the business end of the vintage clothing field. A colleague recently said “the hippie days of the internet are over” and I have been repeating that phrase to vigorous nods from online sellers ever since. No longer can you just slap up a bad photo of a dress you can only vaguely identify for a highish price and then quibble when the buyer is not satisfied...not even close. You can sell vintage or you can become a vintage seller. The former is a casual affair, the latter is quite an investment, quite an effort...and eventually can be quite a wonderful achievement.
Please also read my follow-up to this post.
It’s time for the vintage sun hats, sundresses and sandals that are the best part of summer! See my new theme and get in the spirit:
One of the best things about vintage clothing is that you can dress in your best era...when you would be the It Girl. You might have an emotional connection, or a physical connection, or both.
I can see myself being a 60s mod emotionally, but physically and emotionally both I feel very connected to the mid 1940s.
Here are some Facebook readers in clothing from eras that suit them well. (This was the theme of last week’s denisebrain vintage fashion show.) This doesn’t mean they’re stuck with just that era, but they look connected to it. They wear it well.
I love many past eras, but if I had to pick one favorite it would be mid 40s. Physically, the cut is good for me because it fits me rather naturally. I love peplums so much that I swear my pulse goes up just hearing the word! I love whimsy, and details that echo throughout an outfit. The length is one that practically always works for me.
My emotional connection to the mid 40s starts with the sense of social solidarity brought on by years of economic depression and war. The war ended, and new ideas would soon take hold, but for 1945, women still held positions of power and responsibility that they wouldn’t have before or for quite awhile after the war.
The clothing women wore was often practical but pretty in every creative way it could be. Women wore masculine-inspired suits that looked strong yet feminine. Bakelite was a whimsical alternative to more precious materials, and rationing didn’t stop the milliners from creating some of the most interesting hats of the 20th century. Peplums and draping helped make up for any lack of extravagance in cut, and the skirt lengths and gentle flares were good for walking and biking. Women wore trousers that couldn’t have been more flattering. There were witty details such as victory Vs in necklines, jewelry, and hair. In 1945 my mother was 25, and when I see her picture from that time I feel she was at home. Don’t get me wrong, I wouldn’t want to have lived then, but those are the emotional connections I feel.
What’s your era and why?
A big thanks to Cheryl-Anne Millsap for asking me these questions for a feature in Spokane CDA Woman magazine. Nothing quite like seeing one’s name in very large print!
For the denisebrain vintage fashion show last week I had the pleasure of seeing some of my Facebook readers’ beautiful mothers. The bonus was the story that came with some of these photos.
For instance, Gloria (bottom row, center) said “my mom with a little me, November 1953. We had just come here from England, this photo was taken for a newspaper article. My dad, an American serviceman, stationed in England, was sent back to the states before I was born. She and I traveled, alone, 17 hours, in a prop jet. We settled in New Haven, CT, and into my dad’s large, Italian-American, family”
My own first style icon and mother:
This week in the denisebrain vintage fashion parade I’m looking for you in your favorite era. Is it Mod? New Look? Belle Époque? Show us your era!
Whether you go for full-out vintage looks or mix-and-match with modern, handbags are a very accessible way to get into vintage style.
Just look at how these vintage bags enhance the looks these women have chosen for themselves!
Ever think how different the world was before phone pics? Just try taking your own photo with a film camera!
My May theme is a mash-up of selfie mania (vintage-style) and a favorite song from West Side Story:
Last week I posted one of my fashion shows on Facebook. This one was all about dressing up in vintage.
I posted this theme because I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard women say “I love this, but I would have no place to wear it.” And I say, let’s make places to wear things that make us happy. I got a lot of agreement from others on this, and ideas.
Did you know, for instance, that there actually IS a small but growing dressing-better-to-work day with its own hashtag? #fancyfriday is the name.
Facebook reader and vintage maven Jessica shared her photo of a #fancyfriday dress (“Designed by Blauner for Bonwit Teller label, which I believe was by Evelyn Dawson, the designer for Suzy Perette.” Yes, she’s really a vintage fashion maven! Check out her blog at No Accounting for Taste.) Isn’t she a gorgeous sight?
We have reasons to dress up, yes? Just a dozen:
1. DAR (Daughters of the American Revolution) meetings, as Facebook reader Leigh Anne mentioned. The women love history and love seeing her vintage fashions.
2. Any historical society gathering: Think museum exhibits, boards, historical preservation groups.
3. “Put even the plainest woman into a beautiful dress and unconsciously she will try to live up to it.” - Lady Duff-Gordon
4. Dress for the every day theater of life like you are the leading lady.
5. All your regular clothes are dirty.
6. Go to an historic hotel for a drink.
7. “Life is a party, dress like it.” - Lilly Pulitzer
8. “It takes nothing to join the crowd. It takes everything to stand alone.” - Hans F. Hansen
9. “If you're sad, add more lipstick and attack.” - Coco Chanel
10. Being well dressed is a beautiful form of politeness.
11. #fancyfriday
12. You will make people happy...maybe most especially yourself
Today is the 45th anniversary of Earth Day and the 16th anniversary of denisebrain.
On April 22, 1999, Earth Day was 29 years old and I sold my first vintage dress online. I wasn’t thinking “hey, Earth Day is a great day to associate with selling vintage clothing,” but it was my good fortune that the day coincided. I’ve always been interested in the beautiful recycling aspect of vintage clothing, so what a perfect day to get started.
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Some more good for the Earth:
- I wrap your items with acid-free tissue paper that is 100% post-consumer recycled
- The ribbons I tie packages with are made of 100% recycled cotton
- MacHighway, the website host for denisebrain, is wind-powered
- I donate at least 10% of sales profits to endangered species and environmental causes annually
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Psst! Celebrate the 16th anniversary of denisebrain with a 16% savings in my Etsy shop. Just use coupon code SWEET16 through Friday, April 24 |