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Spokane

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The Shoes Laura Danced In?

There may be nothing quite as personal as an old pair of shoes.

A dress tells us something about the person who wore it. But shoes carry the evidence of the person herself. They take the shape of her feet. Their soles record the fact that she stood in them, walked in them, went somewhere in them.

These belonged to Laura Martin Hartwell.

I introduced Laura recently through an extraordinary beaded silk chiffon dress that had remained in her family for a century. It has now sold as part of my Vintage for Spokane wildfire fundraiser and is on its way to a new home.

 

But the dress wasn't all that survived from Laura's 1920s wardrobe.

There were these shoes.

They are tiny—marked 4 1/2 B—and almost impossibly lovely: golden-bronze floral brocade trimmed in silver leather, with slender ankle straps, tiny mother-of-pearl buttons and silver-covered heels.

For shoes approaching a century old, their condition is remarkable. The brocade is beautiful. The silver still gleams. Even the delicate straps have survived.

And then you turn them over.

The soles are worn.

Not ruined, not heavily damaged. Just worn enough to remind us that these weren't beautiful objects sitting untouched in a box.

Laura went somewhere in them.

Where?

I wish I knew.

Laura was born in 1879, so she was already in her forties during the 1920s. She wasn't the young flapper who has come to represent the decade in our imagination. She was a grown woman—a wife and mother—wearing a blush silk dress covered with beads and rhinestones, and slipping her feet into silver heels when she went out.

Did she wear these with the beaded dress? They survived together, but I can't know. Did she dance in them? I can't know that either.

But I do know that she wore them.

And perhaps that's enough.

There is something profoundly moving to me about standing, figuratively, in the footsteps of the women who came before us. Their lives weren't lived in black and white. They weren't merely names in newspapers, dates in genealogies, or—as I discovered while looking for a photograph of Laura—names carved on gravestones.

They chose beautiful things. They got dressed. They went places.

Laura eventually made her home on West 13th Avenue in Spokane. Her shoes remained in her family through the generations, eventually coming to me through my dear friend Linda.

Now, almost a century after Laura wore them, they are going somewhere again.

I'm offering them at auction as part of Vintage for Spokane: From Spokane, For Spokane, with 100% of the proceeds benefiting SpokAnimal's work helping animals and families affected by the wildfires.

I can't tell you where Laura walked in these shoes.

But I know where they're going now: to help the city she called home.

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The Beaded Dress on West 13th

A 1920s dress of the finest silk chiffon, shimmering with glass beads, rhinestones and silver embroidery—and a label reading simply “French Hand Made”?

I never expected to find such a dress in a box of family things in Spokane.

A year ago, when my dear friend Linda was preparing to leave Spokane, she gave me a number of items she had kept from her family’s history.

Among them was a box containing remnants of one woman’s 1920s wardrobe.

I opened the box, and there it was: a beaded silk dress, its blush pink chiffon glittering with embellishments. There was its original silk slip, a pair of silver brocade shoes, a long chiffon scarf, gloves, and a little box from Spokane’s Davenport Hotel.

The woman who wore them was Laura Martin Hartwell.

Laura was born in 1879 and married William G. Hartwell in 1906. Their marriage license appeared in the newspaper under the wonderfully straightforward heading “Six More Weddings,” listing them both as residents of Northport, Washington.

William would go on to serve as mayor of Colville and later represent northeastern Washington in the state legislature.

But what interests me just as much is the life that can still be glimpsed in the things Laura left behind.

A woman in the 1920s

Laura would have been in her forties during most of the decade—not the young “flapper” we’ve come to associate with the 1920s, but a grown woman embracing the extraordinary fashions of her time.

And what a dress she chose.

The palest blush silk chiffon is covered with hand-sewn glass beads and rhinestones in silver, pink, clear and white. Metallic silver embroidery curls among flowers, scrolls, arcs and other Art Deco flourishes. The beading becomes particularly elaborate around the dropped waist, where the chiffon gathers beneath it.

Inside is that tantalizing little label:

The original silk slip survives too. At some point Laura cut vertical slits into either side of its hem. I can’t tell you why. But I can’t help wondering if a little more freedom of movement was called for.

It was, after all, the 1920s.

(And as it happens, Laura’s great-granddaughter Susanne was a serious ballet dancer for a time.)

The house on West 13th

Laura eventually lived in a house on West 13th Avenue in Spokane. The house remained in her family for generations: Laura left it to her daughter Sue, and Sue later left it to her niece, Laura’s great-granddaughter Susanne.

I’ve been inside that house myself.

There is something about that connection that collapses the distance of a century for me. This isn’t simply a beautiful old dress whose history has disappeared. I know who wore it. I know something of her family. And I have stood inside the Spokane house that she called home.

Eventually, some of the things Laura had kept found their way to Linda, and Linda entrusted them to me.

And now Spokane is hurting.

Entire neighborhoods have been devastated by fire. Thousands of people and their animals have been displaced. Organizations throughout our community are doing everything they can to help.

I kept asking myself what I could possibly do.

Vintage clothing is what I know. Its stories are what I have.

And it seems right that one of these beautiful things, preserved here through generations, might now do something for the place that became its home.

From Spokane. For Spokane.

So Laura’s beaded dress is the first major auction in my Vintage for Spokane: From Spokane. For Spokane. fire-relief fundraiser.

100% of the proceeds from Laura’s dress will go to Project Beauty Share, which is distributing essential personal-care supplies to displaced families and first responders, including through local tribes and other emergency-relief partners.

See the Vintage for Spokane auctions and offerings

I’m not dispersing everything at once. There are other Hartwell pieces that I’ll share later, including another extraordinary embroidered 1920s ensemble.

For now, I want Laura’s dress to have its moment—and perhaps, after a hundred years, another chapter.

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Wear scarves: Expo ’74 edition



In 1974, Spokane was smallest city ever to host a World Exposition. It is now the 40th anniversary of Expo ’74, and the denizens of my smallish city are still feeling the fair’s positive impact.

Today’s scarf (a vintage souvenir from the fair) is one I’ve been pulling out quite a bit this year in tribute to the anniversary. It features the Möbius strip, symbol of the fair which was the first to have an environmental theme.


Thinking 70s, I made a wide headband of my oblong scarf, and included a twist à la Möbius.




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Buy local

Note to self: If you really like a store, shop there.

If you are happy it is in your neighborhood, make a point of letting the proprietor know you feel that way. Even if you are almost completely broke (as I sometimes am) stop in and make a small purchase when possible.

I am making this note to myself because a pretty little store called Eye Candy Antiques is calling it quits in my neighborhood. I don’t know the proprietress well, but each of the three or four times I was in the shop, Anita was unfailingly helpful, kind and friendly. Her shop was a little jewel box, with her love of pink, girly, sparkly things on full display in beautiful presentations. I don’t know the story behind Eye Candy closing, just that the owner said the economy had been really hard on her business. She said it was her dream to own a store, and her dream is coming to an end.

Some store shots from Eye Candy’s Facebook page:

Now it may seem that as an online vintage clothing dealer I might not care to try to make a case for buying locally, but I consider what I do to be a

different

 worthy thing. I have a

small

business—denisebrain.com is not amazon.com—and I work hard to make it as a sole proprietor. Small businesses online also are great places to shop, but for now I’m thinking about the small stores in my city, Spokane.

For many shop owners I’ve met here, the store is their Dream Come True—their heart and soul is thoroughly in it. Further, they are tasked with making their rent, paying bills and other brick-and-mortar store realities. They need customers.

But there’s a selfish side to this too:

I

need to go into a shop and browse. Especially with Christmas coming, I remember very fondly the days when I, as a young girl, would go into shops with my mother, the idea being to find a present for someone in particular. I would let my imagination roam as I looked at things and carefully picked them up and turned them around. I wasn’t looking for anything in particular, but this was just as good if not better, this non-keyword search. I found a music box that played a tune my father always sang, I found gloves that perfectly matched my mother’s blue eyes. I found books and toys and napkins and jewelry that I had no idea I was looking for until I found them.

I’m pretty certain that Anita is going to make it. She’s got style and talent and passion, and her dream is most likely going to find a new way to take shape. I just wish her lovely little store wasn’t closing. (If you are in Spokane, she is offering 50% off most items right now. The store is located at 3017 North Monroe.)

Now, I just need to make sure I go to the other shops I am glad are open. Here are just a few, with images from the stores’ Facebook pages and websites.

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Wonders of the World

Painting by Ric Gendron from Tinman Gallery

Atticus Coffee and Gifts

Boo Radley’s

Auntie’s Bookstore

Vino

Tossed and Found

The Chocolate Apothecary

Glamarita

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