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Gaultier

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Future vintage 6: Fall 2011 runways


I consider runway fashion to be in the (no pun...) running for future vintage, and here are some of my favorites from fall 2011 runways.

It goes without saying that Donna Karan has been creating some beautiful clothing. This fall is not terribly different from last fall, but I do think her work keeps solidifying her as a descendent of Bonnie Cashin, with wearable, beautiful, timeless design, and a woman's appreciation of wearing her clothes being top priorities.


Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu has created a collection that should be dear to most vintage fashion followers, inspired by WWII-era Paris. The outsized bird prints harken to the swallow returning to its home, a potent war-era symbol.


I love the over-sized clutch bags, and this 40s-style lily of the valley print, boldened as it is in size, and on a coat.

I never stop appreciating the creativity, cut, and handsome beauty of Gaultier's collections. This extravagantly-peplumed suit would simply be my favorite forever...at least until his next collection.

At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy dipped into multiple visions of the American prairie, from gorgeously cut neo-Victorian coats and dresses, to flowing 70s-inspired prairie print long gowns, to a sparkling red reference to Dorothy's ruby slippers.





All the images are from style.com, where I go to wend my way through each collection. Do you do this, and if so, do you have favorites this fall? I watch to see what the future of vintage holds, along with what vintage clothing has done to inspire modern designers, yet I'm often—but not always—most interested in what looks most vintage. If you're a vintage fashion follower, do you notice modern runway fashion? Does it appeal to you especially if it appears vintage-inspired?


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...and speaking of Alice

Alice in Wonderland, photographed for Vogue by Annie Leibovitz

An inspiration I'll never forget, from US Vogue 2003, with model Natalia Vodianova, a handful of the greatest fashion designers of our time, and the photographer Annie Leibovitz:

John Galliano

You must see all (including Lacroix as the March Hare and Gaultier as the Cheshire Cat) here.

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80s fashion redux, part 13: Gaultier was the 80s

(This is the thirteenth and final installment in my series of posts on 80s fashion trends and the impact they are having on current fashion. If you'd like to read from the beginning, please start with my blog of July 23.)

It was my personal conclusion several years ago that Gaultier was 80s fashion. He inspired, he cajoled, he shocked, he amused, he led, and he brought popular interest back to fashion designers in that decade.

Jean Paul Gaultier loved fashion in the 80s. As he stated about the 1980s in Interview, October 2001:
For me it was the dream of my life to do this work. I could do what I loved to do. It was a time of excitement and freedom, and also there was a hysteria [in the air] about fashion. There was intensity because the Japanese had arrived and added a lot of excitement. It was not about marketing and managing and all that. In the '80s the word was creativity.
The list of my favorite 80s trends? Gaultier did them all. If you doubt his transmutation of gender roles or his humor, please watch How to Do That, his foray into music video of 1989:




Originally posted June 25, 2006:


I can't begin to articulate the influence of Jean Paul GAULTIER in the 1980s, but I can try to articulate the way his influence felt on me then. Many deemed him the "bad boy" of fashion, but in so many ways he seemed to me the absolute apex of all that was current in the 80s, completely creative yet centered on the classics. Richly traditional, eclectic, seasoned, and yet well-seasoned with more than a hint of exotic spice. Not a bad boy, more like terribly, terribly good!

In my 80s fashion blogs I've mentioned athletic wear, humor, masculine dress, unconventional beauty, uniform, color, polka dots and stripes, vintage inspirations...look no further than Gaultier for the very most incisive looks of the decade. At times as deconstructing and radical as the Japanese, he also held things together with his Parisian fashion roots. Gaultier also made a great impact dressing Madonna in flamboyant outer/underwear, and creating rich ethnic-inspired clothing.

I love this Elle magazine spread with Gaultier choosing clothing from a range of sources for these eclectic looks (above and below).





Update August 31, 2009:
Gaultier has been up to no bad. His recent styling for Les Echos, using his own and others' clothing designs, shows his stunning inimitability:



Here is some of Gaultier's work for Hermès, and his own ready to wear and couture lines for fall 2009, showing his talent for making eye-opening and absolutely wearable clothing.



And still, Gaultier is outré, provoking, amusing, leading as ever, with incredible variety in one—the same—season of design.



From the 80s through today, viva Gaultier!

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80s fashion redux, part 10: The romance of uniforms in the 80s

(This is the tenth in my series of posts on 80s fashion trends and the impact they are having on current fashion. If you'd like to read from the beginning, please start with my blog of July 23.)

It felt like another case of 80s déjà vu when Christophe Decarnin reincarnated the rock-and-roller band jacket for Balmain, Spring 2009.

Then Michael Jackson died. Although band jackets were a look of Sgt. Pepper's-era Beatles and Jimi Hendrix, it feels like it's time again for Michael's jacket, with its flamboyance and fantasy.


It is a look I favored occasionally in the 80s, with a very ornamented green and gold jacket that had been worn by a member of my father's high school pipe band in the 1960s. I am a musician and have worn uniforms because I had to, but I adored wearing such a beautiful vintage uniform because I wanted to.

Originally posted May 16, 2006:

Not just any UNIFORM suited 80s style. Uniforms had to be witty, romantic and sharp, without a hint of grunt or camouflage. The regiment could be from any time and any place in history, and often had a distinct sense of humor. Real vintage uniforms were haute-ly pursued.

Christian Dior Haute Couture by Gianfranco Ferre

Genuine vintage uniform jacket from Kaufman's Army & Navy, NYC

Another authentic vintage uniform jacket

Vintage firefighter's jacket

Traditional Welsh Guards uniform


Update August 18, 2009:

For fall 2009, there is a new regiment of fanciful uniform looks, from Phillip Lim's Mod Sousa to Gaultier for Hermès' aviatrices. With Michael gone, it seems there are plenty ready to take up the baton.

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80s fashion redux, part 5: Male Order

Whether it is with a necktie, a brogue, a crisp big white shirt or a full-blown tuxedo, a recurring idea in fashion is borrowing from the boys. I don't think we are quite at the 80s level of boy-girl dressing, but the theme is alive and well, and in some of the same designers' hands.

Originally posted April 21, 2006:


A woman borrowing from a man's closet was certainly not a new theme in the 80s, but it reached an apex in this decade, and just as distinctly feminine clothing was often highly romanticized, so was the masculine dress (for women) counterpart.

MALE dress borrowed from a theoretical closet, dating from all eras of masculine sartorial splendor. Every woman wore a tie at least once in the 80s, and there were distinctly man/woman tuxes, tailcoats, suits, overcoats and accessories.

Gaultier, the master of the theme

Yamamoto suit, Brooks Brothers shirt, Gene Meyer tie

John Galliano

Gaultier again

and Galliano again, with antique brocade

Elle MacPherson in masculine layers

Updated August 3, 2009:

I can't get enough of this theme, and apparently neither can Gaultier. For Hermès Fall 2009 he has strutted the aviatrix, and I love every second of her old school high-flying style:

Alexander Wang explores the classic boyfriend shirt

and Dolce & Gabbana is finding chic new directions for the tux


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