Viewing entries tagged
Donna Karan

1 Comment

Future vintage 6: Fall 2011 runways


I consider runway fashion to be in the (no pun...) running for future vintage, and here are some of my favorites from fall 2011 runways.

It goes without saying that Donna Karan has been creating some beautiful clothing. This fall is not terribly different from last fall, but I do think her work keeps solidifying her as a descendent of Bonnie Cashin, with wearable, beautiful, timeless design, and a woman's appreciation of wearing her clothes being top priorities.


Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu has created a collection that should be dear to most vintage fashion followers, inspired by WWII-era Paris. The outsized bird prints harken to the swallow returning to its home, a potent war-era symbol.


I love the over-sized clutch bags, and this 40s-style lily of the valley print, boldened as it is in size, and on a coat.

I never stop appreciating the creativity, cut, and handsome beauty of Gaultier's collections. This extravagantly-peplumed suit would simply be my favorite forever...at least until his next collection.

At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy dipped into multiple visions of the American prairie, from gorgeously cut neo-Victorian coats and dresses, to flowing 70s-inspired prairie print long gowns, to a sparkling red reference to Dorothy's ruby slippers.





All the images are from style.com, where I go to wend my way through each collection. Do you do this, and if so, do you have favorites this fall? I watch to see what the future of vintage holds, along with what vintage clothing has done to inspire modern designers, yet I'm often—but not always—most interested in what looks most vintage. If you're a vintage fashion follower, do you notice modern runway fashion? Does it appeal to you especially if it appears vintage-inspired?


1 Comment

4 Comments

80s fashion redux, part 11: Finally! Vintage inspirations in the 80s

(This is the eleventh in my series of posts on 80s fashion trends and the impact they are having on current fashion. If you'd like to read from the beginning, please start with my blog of July 23.)

Vintage clothing was hot in the 80s. What had gotten going in the 1970s only intensified, and designers were inspired to create new fashions with decidedly vintage style.

Norma Kamali, 1985
Now stay with me here, I'm talking about the influence of previous decades' fashions on 80s fashion, while talking about how fashions of the 80s are influencing current fashion. It can at times be dizzying.

Originally posted May 22, 2006:(I've been just dying to show these photos...I was at home in vintage in the 80s, and some of these photos are much worn from my carrying them around as inspiration. I will limit my remarks and photos, but I would love to go on infinitely...)

The most modern VINTAGE wearers in the 80s didn't so much wallow in nostalgia, but nicked and adapted freely from the past. Fashion in the 80s found its kindred spirit in the 50s so inspirations from that decade were particularly compelling, while the 30s seemed to come in a glamorous second. The 60s were too recent to find great currency (not so much shape any way, but color and pattern), and the early years of the 40s were just a tad too austere for this flamboyant decade.

Edwardian Summer

Flapper Twenties

Margaret Howell white linen shirt and jacket
Starlet Thirties

Dior makeupDonna KaranRandy Kemper
Air Raid Forties

Pringle twinsuit and Armani cuffed trousers
Glamour Fifties

OMO Norma Kamali draped gown. Marabou stole, Adrienne Landeau
Rifat Ozbek stripes and Graham Smith straw hatCoveri blue and silver cocktail frock
Fab Sixties
Stephen Sprouse

Update August 23, 2009:Maybe we are being influenced by the 80s to delve into the past, but we may actually have the 80s beat, with so many designers referencing vintage styles for fall 2009.

Galliano's bright vision of the Edwardian era for Dior ready to wear


20s inspirations from Lanvin and Prada30s from Dolce & Gabbana and Hermès


Alber Elbaz/Lanvin's and Elie Saab's 40s looks
Galliano's take on the 50s, for Dior haute couturePhillip Lim's trip seems to be the 60s British Invasion


The 70s seem to hold less sway over current trends than they have in some time, although I wouldn't be surprised to lift the brim of this hat to find Lauren Hutton:
Ralph Lauren


Now add to these the 1980s, and the 80s versions of previous eras.

It's dizzying...but in a good way.


4 Comments

Comment

80s fashion redux, part 8: Gold, silver, ethnic, flash, glitter and knockout extravagance

(This is the eighth in my series of posts on 80s fashion trends and the impact they are having on current fashion. If you'd like to read from the beginning, please start with my blog of July 23.)

The 80s had a you can't contain me vibe, with big hair, big shoulders, frothy skirts, underwear as outerwear, bright prints and colors...and of course strong jewelry. Jewelry showed our love of material things, and our fervor for fashion. If I had to choose one 80s-style bold jewelry item for fall 2009, it would be a necklace, the most convincing of pieces being shown.

Originally posted April 30, 2006:

This is too easy! It is actually a bit hard to find 80s fashion photos without strong jewelry!

Large earrings and brooches, clusters of pins and bracelets, Chanel-like (better yet actual Chanel) multiple ropes of chains and pearls, big ethnic beads, flashy bejeweled crosses...To call it the decade of OUTGOING JEWELRY is a positive understatement! Watches were so important that I'll give them their own time later.

Brooch, Verdura. Cuff, John Iversen

David Millman bracelets and earrings

Earrings and necklace by Alan MacDonald for Ozbek. Jacket, Ozbek

Pins, Sentimento. Bracelet, The Franklin Mint. Outfit, Jean Paul Gaultier

Star pins by Anni & Co., and Richard Lindsay. Shirt, OMO Norma Kamali. Jacket, Malisy. Pants, Plein Sud by Fayal Amor

Earrings, Fabrice. Blazer and sweater by Charvet

Update August 10, 2009:

I'm not sure if real women are there yet, but we're headed there. Designers from Donna Karan to Consuelo Castiglioni (Marni) are making bold, if not huge statements with jewelry, particularly necklaces. The collage-y found-object looks are particularly 80s looking to my eyes. It is almost a paean to the 1980s to show watch faces as did Dolce & Gabbana.

Dolce & Gabbana's timely looks

Donna Karan's cool geometrics

Marni's earthy collages

Lanvin's industrial machine parts

Jason Wu stilettos and Neo-New Wave Marc Jacobs

Pretty opulence from Bottega Veneta and Zac Posen

Comment

5 Comments

80s fashion redux, part 2: Business clothing

Right now is a fine time to polish up one's work wardrobe, with so much competition for none too many jobs, along with fears over losing one's job. Unlike in the 1980s, the high percentage of women in the workforce is nothing new. Now we just need to get and keep jobs, and work on the 73-cents-on-the-dollar pay imbalance with men.

Originally posted April 10, 2006:

BUSINESS Although high fashion magazines didn't dwell on business fashion (some would call it anti-fashion), they couldn't completely ignore the throngs of women in the work force...more than ever before in history. Here are some wonderfully accessorized takes on male dress, work wear and traditional clothing. As you can see, if it is from the 80s, it quite likely has polka dots or stripes!

Skirt and jacket by Agnes B.
Dress by Valentino Miss V. Glasses, Anglo American Eyewear

Update July 25, 2009:

For fall 2009, designers produced a surprising number of outfits that would not look out of place getting off the subway at Lexington Avenue and heading into an office building for work. Donna Karan stands out for going back to her 80s roots with plenty of chicly powerful business suits:


At Prada, Miuccia Prada showed some particularly fetching and classic tweeds. See, they're even carrying briefcases!

A briefcase is also in the hand of a runway model in Bottega Veneta leather:


If all these seem a bit somber as compared to our sisters in the 80s, there's always Chanel...



5 Comments