Warmest wishes to you and yours! See you in the New Year!
My best to you,
Maggie of denisebrain
It's been quite a year for the world. Not at all easy, as I'm sure you have observed.
It has been quite a year for me personally as well. I guess that's the reason I'm so grateful this Thanksgiving Day...I'm grateful for every little thing that has gone well!
One thing that has gone right: After total hip replacement surgery on October 30, I'm getting stronger "way quicker than expected." Many thanks to all of you who have sent me get-better notes. I'm buoyed by your thoughts!
Yes, I'm better, thank you!
Another reason for gratitude: Before the surgery, and with my psoriatic disease making it difficult to do my own modeling, I've had the great fortune of having my friend Fay Ripley (who is both a pro photographer and a vintage fashionista) set up photo shoots with her photographer friend Marc Harvey, and a crew of wonderful women who have modeled for me. I was afraid of this step in my business, but I am SO happy with the results. I hope I will still be able show some of my vintage finery on myself, but I now know I don't have to quit while my disease slows me down.
A scene from a recent photo shoot
I'm very grateful to have been able to support Dress for Success Worldwide through the sales from the Pink Heart Shop section of my Etsy store. So many of you have purchased to help this cause, and several have even donated vintage fashion to me so that I can offer it for sale.
I love this little video from Dress for Success, that gives you a taste of their fantastic work.
At the same time, 10% of all the rest of my sales has gone to protecting manatees through Save the Manatee Club. Again, so many customers are eager to help with this great cause, and tell me so. Many people think of me as "the manatee lady" ...and I'm just fine with that. I love all animals, but one very large place in my heart is reserved for these awesome, gentle—and perilously threatened—creatures.
The rest of the good I want to mention is the everyday sort: Every single day I am thankful for what I do, the knowledge I gain, and the beautiful clothing I get to see and hold in my hands. I am thankful for all the wonderful people I meet and get to know in the world of vintage fashion. My customers, my readers, my colleagues, and my friends—all of you make what I do such a joy. From the bottom of my heart, thank you so much!
Why Dress for Success?
I believe in the power of dress to change a woman's life. And, many women do not have the power to change their lives themselves.
Dress for Success exists to help women find the clothing and skills to thrive in work and life. Since starting operations in 1997, Dress for Success has expanded to more than 150 cities in 28 countries and has helped nearly one million women work towards self-sufficiency.
One year ago I opened the Pink Heart Shop, a shop-within-a-shop in my Etsy store, with 100% of proceeds going to Dress for Success Worldwide. In the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey, I sent Pink Heart Shop proceeds to Dress for Success Houston, which was on the ground delivering donations to people in need.
Since starting the Pink Heart Shop, I have received two generous donations of vintage clothing for me to sell, from people interested in contributing to this cause.
I'm proud and happy to say that, with your help, I have been able to donate $1123.50 this year.
There are 40 items in the Pink Heart Shop today, with more added each week. Consider adding something to your own sartorial strength while assisting someone less fortunate to do the same.
If not, please join the gang! These women all sent me photos of themselves showing how they wear their denisebrain finds.
I've heard from many people that they are inspired by these, so why not send your photo in so I can show you off?: margaret@denisebrain.com
(There's always room for more!)
Manatee on my mind. Illustration of me by Anna Davies.
I am a manatee hugger, pure and simple. Years ago, when I stood with my husband on the banks of the St. John River and watched a rehabilitated manatee being released back into the wild, I fell in love with these gentle giants.
It was at this time last year that I decided to donate 10% of my earnings to saving manatees. Before September 2016, I ran fundraisers here and there...but I felt it was time to take the plunge and make this a full-time relationship.
According to Save the Manatee Club, I have been able to donate $1665.00 since September 2016. I couldn't do this without my customers, who have told me so many times how much they care right along with me.
At nearly the same time, I created the Pink Heart Shop section of my Etsy store, the shop-within-a-shop with 100% of sales going to Dress for Success. I'll update you soon on total sales for that great cause.
What can I say? Denisebrain has the best customers.
My warmest thanks and appreciation to you!
Today, September 1st, I'd sincerely like to be writing...
How was your summer?
and
Welcome back to school and work!
and (of course)
Look how you can interpret modern fall fashions with vintage!
...but my heart is too heavy with concern in the aftermath of Hurricane Harvey and the terrible damage it has done to Houston and the region.
Photos of donations being delivered to the George R. Brown Convention Center, from Dress for Success Houston's Facebook page.
As a response, I am directing all sales through September 6 from The PINK HEART Shop of my Etsy store (usually heading to Dress for Success Worldwide) to Dress for Success Houston. The organization is on the ground, doing crucial work, right now. They will also be there as people try to get their lives back in the aftermath of the hurricane.
I've stocked up the PINK HEART Shop, and am adding new every day.
It's a small contribution from my customers and me—but huge contributions are made up of small contributions, right?
We can get back to talk of school, work, and fall fashion in good time.
Recently I took a stab at four general vintage-wearing personas, modes of style that you might choose for every day, or flit between. One of these styles, The Vintage Mixer, generated a lot of comments. It seemed to need expansion.
First, a quick review. In that previous blog I proposed that there are—
1. Wear-with-alls: Not driven by vintage, just looking for a unique, quality vintage piece here and there
2. Time travelers: The total look, hat-to-shoes right out of a vintage Vogue
3. Walking works of art: Creative and bold, using vintage but not necessarily all vintage
4. Vintage mixers: Mostly or all vintage, put together from various eras
That last type? Too broad. I'm now proposing these four distinct types of vintage mixing personas:
All-vintage Mixers
Era mashing
The Era Mashing Mixer is a purist about wearing mostly vintage, but as to which era, she is an iconoclast. For one outfit she may mix a 1940s jacket with 1970s wide-legged trousers, a 1950s blouse, and a 1960s bag. This might be done with purposeful harmonizing, or ironic wit.
Zara wearing a 1940s hat and belt, 1950s sunglasses, a 1970s polka dot dress, and a 1980s marabou jacket. I love that #justbloodywearit is her constant hastag and motto! Courtesy of @zeebeezsazsa on Instagram
SPECIALIST MIXERS
Showcasing collections of specific vintage pieces
The Specialist Mixer might see herself as a collector, connoisseur, and wearer of certain favorite vintage items in particular. She may tote vintage handbags, or cuff herself in vintage Bakelite bracelets, wear vintage modernist-print Vera scarves or pieces from the 1970s by Yves Saint Laurent. Her wearable collections may be estimable.
Just two of the many amazing vintage bakelite bracelet stacks the vintage maven Sandi of @lorrelmae has shown on Instagram. (Also, check out her Etsy shop!)
MODERN/VINTAGE MIXERS
Interested in vintage, but interested in modern fashion too
Modern/Vintage Mixer types may seek out vintage that interprets new styles, or new styles that echo vintage. Not one to set aside the present state of fashion, but also fascinated by the past, the Modern/Vintage Mixer is a creative blender of the old and new.
People that I know in this group are sometimes motivated by the green side of vintage, being anti-fast fashion, careful to be sure their modern fashion purchases are ethically and sustainably made as often as possible. Sometimes their contemporary pieces consist of the basics, and they use vintage as the mainstay of their wardrobes.
Stop and ask! says Nicole, @theartyologist on Instagram and blogging (about vintage, sustainable fashion, art, and photography) at theartyologist.com
INSPIRED-BY-VINTAGE MIXERS
The goal is the total look, sometimes using vintage repro clothing
This mixer contingency may not be able to find what they need in good shape and in the right size (at the right time), or simply want to wear something that looks vintage that they needn’t worry about if jitterbugging or pruning the rosebush. Often these mixers are close to Time Travelers, their full-on vintage look created with a certain amount of repro vintage-style clothing. The Inspired-by-vintage Mixer might, for instance, wear repro shoes and jeans with an authentic vintage sweater and scarf.
Photo from the account of Instagram's @missharlowdarling; also be inspired by the Harlow Darling blog
What do you think? Do you wear your vintage like any of these stylish mixologists?
I you enjoyed this, you might like my book Wear Vintage Now! Choose It, Care for It, Style It Your Way, available now!
If you follow my blog, my Facebook page, my Tweets, my Instagram feed, or have spoken with me in person, you know I love manatees. 10% of my sales go to Save the Manatee Club year round.
Right now I've intensified my efforts. Through August 7, 25% of my vintage fashion sales will go to Save the Manatee Club, along with 100% of donations made directly on my YouCaring page set up for this special fundraiser.
Why the fundraiser at this moment? The reason is that I (along with countless others) am heartbroken by the tragic accidental death of Snooty, the world's most famous manatee. Perhaps you heard about his death, just a day after his 69th birthday was celebrated with thousands of people singing and cheering for him.
Having been born in captivity on July 21, 1948, Snooty was known by generations of visitors to the South Florida Museum, where he lived in a special aquarium. He contributed greatly to what is known and thought of manatees—and his personality stole our hearts.
Snooty's aquarium at the South Florida Museum also hosts and rehabilitates wild manatees that have been rescued. The Museum states that they will continue this important program.
In memory of Snooty, my hope is to raise $1,000 by August 7, 2017, to be donated to Save the Manatee Club specifically for the rescue and rehabilitation of these beloved animals. Raising this much money in two weeks, I admit, is pretty ambitious. I only dare set such a goal because so many people have expressed their love for manatees to me. So many seem eager to help.
If you've had your eye on any items in my Etsy shop, know that you will be helping this cause a bit more than usual with your purchase through August 7, 2017. If you see nothing to tempt you right now and still wish to contribute, my YouCaring page is there for you too.
Thank you so much for your help! No way could I do this without you.
Anna Bond painting
Yeah, I know it's a well-worn (perhaps even a bit threadbare) vintage slogan, but it seems apropos
Until recently, I have always managed to carry out my vintage fashion business as a solo act, a one-woman sourcing, selling, and marketing department—even the modeling, photography, and shipping departments, all rolled into one. I don't know how many of you are entrepreneurs, and among those, how many are solo entrepreneurs, but I have a piece of advice from one previously solo act to another: Build a team.
Let me take a step back.
The hopeful type, I am one of those with a perpetually half-full glass. Still, it hasn't been as easy to see things in that rosy-tinted light with my as-yet-to-be-controlled autoimmune disease, psoriatic arthritis. Some days I don't feel like getting out of bed from exhaustion and pain. I have great doctors working with me to find the right combination for improved health, but it takes time and trials. For now, it is so very much harder to be who I want to be for myself, my business, and for my friends and family.
Denisebrain needs a team. Actually, it took a certain amount of disability to admit I already have a team, and then to add to it.
My husband is a graphic designer, the art director of a magazine. Guess who has always helped me with (among many other things) my websites and branding? Then there are the wonderful people who have consistently sourced vintage fashions for me over the years. There's my seamstress, who at 80 years of age is an inspiration to me with her vitality and creativity. I have been working with an editor to prepare my book for publication (I highly recommend my editor, Amy Scott of Nomad Editorial).
I probably get more comments about my photos than anything else about denisebrain. I have loved photographing vintage portraying the sort of happiness and healthiness you see in old magazines and movies.
Right now, though, I can't find either the ease or the energy to take many photos. So, lemons to lemonade, in walked another person for my team.
Fay Ripley photo
Fay Ripley is an experienced photographer who takes artful narrative photos.
Fay is also a vintage lover who sells vintage fashions at Chosen Vintage in Spokane (her shop within Chosen is Red Leaf Vintage). Fay offered to help set up a photo shoot using her studio and equipment. She did so much more than help though—she truly brought everything and everyone together, including Marc Harvey, another great photographer with whom she shares the studio, and four of the five models.
Fay and Marc created a lighting set up that perfectly emulates my home studio setup.
A couple weeks ago we had a photo shoot. I had no idea how it would go, never having dealt with so many people and moving parts before. I was very pleased—I think this is going to work for me.
So, after 17 years of photos of and by just me, myself and I, there will be some new faces. I will still make appearances too, just not all of the time.
Every single one of the women who modeled for me recently gets vintage, and that makes a big difference. Trying to summarize how I wanted them to look for the photos, I said "not like you think you're cool—more like you're someone's sister or best friend. The Girl Next Door. Happy, healthy, having fun, smiling." They all pulled this off beautifully.
A good friend suggested that I introduce these women to you, and, with their permission, I will. I may not be so lucky as to get the same group again, but at least for now you will see these smiling faces:
Victoria is an aspiring medical student with a love for the French horn and fashion. Yes, French horn, my instrument, which is how I got to know her. She was my student, and I've known her parents (her dad's another horn player) since forever ago. Victoria and I always snuck in conversations about clothes during horn lessons, so I knew she'd be great for this. Plus, I'm always overjoyed to see her, because she is one of my favorite people.
Grace is a model, and it absolutely showed; I love the attitude she brought to all her photos for me...she is a true pro. Bonus: She's (obviously) adorable and so sweet.
Kendra calls herself a filmmaker, graphic designer and vintage lover who is fond of travel and tea drinking. I'd say she understates her talents a bit; have a look at her website sometime. Kendra not only oozes talent and enthusiasm, but has an irrepressible smile. She fits right in with the denisebrain vibe, if I do say so myself.
Hayley is an Inupiaq Eskimo who comes from Shaktoolik, Alaska, a village on the Bering Sea. She is in college as an aspiring photographer, saying she has a lot of fun being in front of the camera but she also has her eye on being on the other side of the lens. I'd say that whatever side of the lens she is on, Hayley is going to be great, because she is so fun to be around, and super kind and helpful too.
Gianna is a yoga instructor (she owns a local studio) and paralegal, as well as a a vintage-specializing model. She says she loves to capture the essence of classic film stars when she models, "bringing life to a beautiful and elegant era past." Gianna has it all going for her: The knowledge to strike a pose that is pure vintage elegance, the just-right figure to show off clothes, and the obvious love of fashions from the past. Plus, she is a lovely character to work with. All that yoga is paying off, Gianna!
Real women wear vintage. I've said that so many times, and now I get to show you.
Real women also need help at times. After all, it's a fine time of year for lemonade!
I'm busy working on my book about getting started with wearing vintage, and my editor suggested I need to add a section to fill out my comments about how to style vintage clothing. I agree with her, it isn't always obvious how to put vintage wearing into practice.
I don't like do's and don't's, so this added section wouldn't be about rules, but I also don't want to fill pages with words that give no guidance. So, meet the Vintage-Wearing Personas, modern vintage-wearing styles that you might choose for every day, or flit between.
You can help me with this by letting me know
if you think there is a vintage-wearing persona I'm missing
which of the personas fits you and how closely you relate to it
who are some of your choices for your persona's heroines
Wear-with-alls
Not driven by vintage, just looking for a unique, quality vintage piece here and there
Do you want to wear vintage but not broadcast the fact that you are? You may be a wear-with-all type. Your natural style may be bold or reserved, elegant, flamboyant or grungy—wearing vintage is not your driving motivator.
For the wear-with-all persona, you may want to find vintage replacements for the modern components of your wardrobe. You might find something that is in style right now, only in the better-quality, better-priced, and unique vintage original version. Start with just one piece mixed in with modern clothes and accessories from your closet.
What’s easy about this style persona is that you almost can’t seem costume-y. You can blend into your work setting, take the dog for a walk, go to a party…and feel attractive but not conspicuously “vintage.” You are more likely to hear “I love that!” than “is that vintage?”
The hard part may be coming up with the vintage items that work well for you with your present wardrobe, in the right size. (That’s why I am writing my book, coming soon!) Really, the hardest part may be showing restraint once you get going with vintage!
Wear-with-all heroines
Kate Middleton
Michelle Obama
Amal Clooney
Instagram wear-with-alls: notdeadyetstyle, sustainableelegance
Wear-with-all Quote
It's not about the dress you wear, but the life you lead in the dress. —Diana Vreeland
Time travelers
The total look, hat-to-shoes right out of a vintage Vogue
This is the easiest and hardest vintage fashion personality, rolled into one. The simple part is that you don’t have to figure out if a style works, you just need to recreate a look that you admire. You can choose your outfit and styling literally from a vintage magazine editorial or advertisement, a movie…you are the costumer and actor in your own period drama.
Difficult may be finding and putting together the details of the look you want, and then carrying off the look with aplomb. Your look could be seen as costume-y, and you will need to be ready to answer questions about the style and why you are so "dressed up."
Some women pull off this look daily, even in a workplace environment, others dress from hat to shoes in one period look for a vintage fashion event. This is a persona you might take on here and there...or all the time.
Time traveler heroines
Dita Von Teese
Paloma Faith
Instagram time travelers: isabelmusidora, lost_in_the_50's, noaccountingfortaste
Time Traveler Quote
She's a three page love letter in a world of relationship status updates. —J.M. Storm
Walking works of art
Creative and bold, using vintage but not necessarily all vintage
#justbloodywearit, is a hashtag I always find on the Instagram feed of a vintage fashionista named Zara (@zeebeezsazsa), who wears a rainbow of color, clashing prints, 1940s with 70s, 60s, 30s, 80s. A doctor, Zara thinks of her fashion as an escape from all the life and death emotional decisions that need to be made daily. Her litmus test for choosing something to wear is that she likes it and that it expresses how she feels. She doesn’t follow rules or strive to look like anyone else.
This persona is easy for a small percentage of people, the types who might see their bodies as a canvas for being sartorially creative. Dressing with vintage will give this type the maximum possible options for self expression.
Maybe this is the look you really admire but it seems difficult to you. First you have to decide what works, then you have to let go of your inhibitions. The one commonality I see between the protagonists of this style are their signature touches—wearing fluffy pink pieces, giant bracelets, a turban—whatever seems to most suit their style. I also think it takes a sense of humor. A bit of a smile never hurts when you’re being noticed by everyone.
Walking work of art heroines
Iris Apfel
Anna Piaggi
Instagram walking works of art: zeebeezsazsa, purelypatricia
Walking Work of Art Quote
Fashion should be a form of escapism, not a form of imprisonment. —Alexander McQueen
Vintage mixers
Mostly or all vintage, put together from various eras
Do you want your wardrobe to be mainly vintage yet not feel like you are time traveling from another era? Vintage mixing is the art of putting together an outfit from various vintage components that may date from different decades. You might put a 1940s jacket with 1970s wide-legged trousers, a 1950s blouse and a 1960s bag. What might bring the decades together is some sort of harmony, in color, print, fabric or style.
On paper, this might seem the persona box you'd like to tick. After all, it is all vintage, but creatively harmonious. What's difficult is making this mix-and-match work.
When you mix vintage things up, consider matching certain elements:
• Color across eras
• Patterns that relate to one another
• All one era but in an unexpected way
• Textural combinations that work across decades
• Timeless elements
Vintage mixer heroineS
Tavi Gevinson
Zooey Deschanel
Kate Moss
Instagram vintage mixers: crocodilelightning, sophiamzell
Vintage Mixer Quotation
Fashion has always been a repetition of ideas, but what makes it new is the way you put it together. —Carolina Herrera
So what do you think? Can you relate to any of these vintage-wearing personas? Please let me know in a comment!
Today is the 18th anniversary of denisebrain. I didn't plan this day to coincide with Earth Day in 1999, but it has always seemed fitting. After all, vintage fashion is the chicest form of reuse...recycling in style!
Earth Day is now 47, dwarfing my little 18 years in business—and the Earth is estimated to be 4.54 billion years old, dwarfing most everything. I still feel that all we can do to honor our beautiful "home" truly matters.
Please help me celebrate the 18th anniversary of denisebrain by using the coupon code 18THBIRTHDAY for 18% off any purchase from the denisebrain Etsy shop through Monday, April 24, 2017.
...and celebrate the Earth every day by wearing vintage!
Marlene Dietrich in Shanghai Express (1932)
Feel a thrill at the very mention of movie legends? Transported by wittily scribed Hollywood gossip? Compelled to unravel murders alongside great film noir detectives? Darkly fascinated by the insidious Nazi influences on the interwar movie industry?
Then Dangerous to Know is a book you must read.
My fascination with this book also comes from a more esoteric thread, that of costume design and fashion. The year is 1938, and the costume designer Edith Head is working to secure her ascendance at Paramount Studios. She has draped Dorothy Lamour famously in a sarong for The Hurricane, Anna Mae Wong in exotic sophistication for Dangerous to Know (yes, a fine title for this book).
Head's own style has changed with her burgeoning career. She is now the serious woman with the closed-lip smile, neat black bangs and chignon, and owlish round black glasses we all can picture. For the book, the real Edith Head becomes a fictional character, friends with plucky young Lillian Frost, who has secured a job as social secretary to a movie-mad millionaire. They make an interesting team, Edith and Lillian, with enough intelligence, wit, depth, bravery, and (of course) style to drive the plot forward like bolts of silk under the sewing needles in the costume studio on the night before a Paramount filming.
An obscure but true historical scandal, one that left Jack Benny and George Burns facing smuggling charges, is the scaffolding of the drama. In her quest to put her best foot forward, Edith Head asks Lillian Frost to help Marlene Dietrich find missing friend, accompanist, and fellow émigré Jens Lohse. Lillian discovers Lohse's dead body, along with a trail of real and fictional characters that lead her into a murder mystery maze worthy of Old Hollywood.
I couldn't put the book down, not just because I couldn't wait to discover the denouement, but because the writing has picturesque vintage details, such as Lillian's landlady Mrs. Quigley, "her taste buds ravaged by an excess of champagne and oysters during her Ziegfeld Follies days, brewed java strong enough to bring Pony Express riders to their knees" or Errol Flynn guiding a young woman "into his banquette as if she were a Buick with balky steering.”
Precise are the references to fashion, as when Lillian describes to Edith a woman of a certain age at a dinner party:
Picture a floor-length sheath of white silk jersey—with a gargantuan royal-blue bow covering most of the bodice. The points of which unfortunately emphasized Mrs. Lauer’s sagging jawline.
Yes, I picture this, and recognize the implications. I could easily conjure the image of every fashion described in Dangerous to Know, and there are many. When Lillian proclaims that her millionaire boss wore not a tuxedo for a dinner party, but blue serge, I feel privy to a deeper understanding of the characters.
When we first see Dietrich?
Marlene Dietrich coasted into the office, crooked smile first. She wore a pale green daytime suit with a subtle checkered pattern and slightly flared skirt. The matching emerald veil on her low-crowned hat did extraordinary favors for eyes that required no help.
The thrill of the star's presence is as palpable as that emerald veil.
Dangerous to Know was authored by Rosemarie and Vince Keenan, under the pseudonym Renee Patrick. One of them, but most likely both the wife and husband, are deeply steeped in Old Hollywood history, making their story intoxicatingly real right down to the collars and cuffs.
It is the second Lillian Frost & Edith Head novel by Renee Patrick, the first, Design for Dying, is now on my must-read list, as will be any future stories starring these new favorite sleuths.
Please note: A copy of Dangerous to Know was given to me to review if I wished, with no quid pro quo expected.
Some of the links in my blog posts may be Amazon affiliate links, which can help me maintain my website. I only link to items I truly recommend for you, and would personally use.
IF YOU COULD HAVE JUST EIGHT VINTAGE FASHION ITEMS, WHAT WOULD THEY BE?
My third guest on Desert Island Vintage is Helen Mae Green, who has been writing the personal style blog Lovebirds Vintage since 2012. She has mused about her vintage style being inspired not so much by stars as by everyday people. Even though I'd argue to the contrary, Helen claims she isn't glamorous. Certainly her style seems classic, timeless—and real. I can see her stepping out of one of the vintage photos she cites as inspiration.
Helen in a favorite 1950s dress
Although in the thick of studies, she graciously took the time to answer the Desert Island Question:
IF YOU COULD HAVE JUST EIGHT VINTAGE FASHION ITEMS, WHAT WOULD THEY BE?
What does this studious English rose fancy? Read on:
"I decided to start off with those items of vintage I currently own that I couldn’t do without, either because they’re very hardworking items in my wardrobe or because they’re just too pretty. As I’m limited to 8 items in total, I narrowed my selection down to three absolute favourites and two items where I own the modern repro version but would really love to have the real thing. The remaining items are all fantasy items because a girl’s got to dream! They’re all items on my ongoing “to buy” list, so hopefully they’ll eventually make their way into my wardrobe.
1. "1940s blue floral dress
The first item I’ve chosen is this gorgeous original 1940s dress in a blue floral rayon. This dress is what my 1940s dreams are made of, and I really wish I had the money and the lifestyle to add more genuine 1940s pieces to my wardrobe. As it is, I don’t often get the opportunity to wear my most precious vintage pieces at the moment, but as long as this dress is in my wardrobe I can’t feel too bad. The fit is perfect on me, and I love the way the dress hangs and moves. The ruffles on the front add an extra special touch, and there’s even a pretty belt that fastens at the back. I really feel like a princess every time I wear this.
2. "c. 1970s wool skirt
This skirt is the ultimate “workhorse” item in my wardrobe. It’s vintage from the 1970s or 80s but I often wear it in a 1950s inspired style. I live in England so it gets pretty cold over the autumn and winter, so the medium-weight wool helps to keep me nice and warm, especially when layered over an underskirt and some knitted tights. It’s a great neutral colour so it’s very versatile, and it even has pockets. Winner!
3. "1980s boots
What can I say about these boots? They’re a bit steampunk, a bit cowboy, and a lot fabulous. I love the Victorian-inspired shape of them, and although the pattern looks a bit crazy, they still seem to go with a lot of different outfits. I bought them when I was on a quest to find boots without a zip up the inside as they tend to cause me to trip over my own feet, but I also prefer lace-up boots for aesthetic reasons. I get no end of compliments when I wear these and they’re so unique and great fun to wear.
4. "Original 1940s or 50s jeans
For this next item we’re getting slightly more into the fantasy realm. I have several pairs of reproduction vintage jeans that I wear regularly, like those shown in the picture, but I’d really like to own some original ones. I went through a phase of not wearing jeans because I thought they could be a bit scruffy or unflattering, but vintage ones are a completely different beast. They’re still a casual item but aren’t completely unstructured, and the high waist divides the body across its narrowest point rather than its widest point like modern low-rise jeans. I find this much more flattering as it doesn’t create a muffin top where there otherwise wouldn’t be one, and is much better at hiding problem areas if you do have them. Overall, jeans are now an integral part of my wardrobe, and I’ll definitely be looking out for an original pair to add to my collection.
5. "White 1940s blouse
This is another item where I have owned various reproduction versions, but would really like to own an original one. I’m of the belief that every girl needs a nice structured white blouse, and mine always get lots of use. I like the shoulder pads and wonderful sharp collars.
6. "Quilted circle skirt
I’ve been looking out for a quilted circle skirt in my size and price range for a long time. I think they’re very stylish but also they appeal to me as being something a little warmer for the winter, as it’s always my winter wardrobe that seems to be lacking.
1950s novelty print quilted cotton circle skirt owned and worn by Janey Ellis of the Atomic Redhead blog
7. "1940s suit
Ah, suits. So stylish, so versatile. I have a great 1950s suit which gets a lot of wear, both as a whole suit and with the skirt and jacket worn separately, but I’d really love a beautifully fitted 1940s suit to wear as well. Something about the fit and style of 1940s clothing despite the rationing really shines through in suits for me.
War-era woman wearing a suit (Flickr Commons)
8. "1950s New Look coat
Another thing I’ve had on my to-buy list for a long time, and my last Desert Island item, is a wide-skirted 1950s coat in a New Look style. I wear a lot of full skirts (or full-skirted dresses) and am forever frustrated by how coats in the wrong shape squash the skirts, and how modern ones are almost certainly too short to cover the skirt which can look odd. If I had a coat like this, I’d wear it a lot and probably have a lot of fun swishing about. A must-have for sure.
J. Paul & Sons Mannequin Parade, 1949 (Flickr Commons)
Perhaps she will wear such a coat on a case once she gets her degree. Oh didn't I mention? Helen is currently working on her PhD in forensic entomology. I like to imagine her future employment could rather handily place her in a 1940s film noir—and she would probably enjoy wearing the clothing!
Many thanks to Helen Mae Green for sharing her Desert Island capsule wardrobe with us all!
Besides her Lovebirds Vintage blog, be sure to look for Helen on Facebook and Instagram (including some of her glorious recent modeling photos!).
What would you want if you could have just eight vintage fashion pieces? If you'd like to be featured here, let me know!
San Francisco was one of the cities on the crest of the vintage fashion nostalgia wave of the late 1960s. At the time, romantic Edwardian and Victorian fashions were being rediscovered in flea markets by expressive young dressers who were tired of modern "establishment" clothing. Enter Gunne Sax, a small SF dress company founded in 1967 with a flair for the nostalgic.
Jessica McClintock, a teacher, newly divorced and with a young son, invested in the company and became its designer and marketer. In 1969 McClintock became its sole owner. Through the years, Gunne Sax has made an array of nostalgic styles, referencing Renaissance, Empire, Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Very popular were Gunne Sax's prairie girl looks. This was definitely a fanciful 19th-century prairie girl, dressed in cotton calicos, muslin and lace, with ribbons, lacings and flounces. There were lots of Gunne imitators, but the real thing is almost always discernible just by the detail of its embellishments.
These are the Gunne Sax I have sold through the years, roughly in order from the earliest "black label" models of the late 1960s, through the 1980s, when the company had expanded in other vintage-inspired directions.
Speaking from the experience of living through the heyday of Gunne Sax, I can say that these dresses (and separates) were exactly what many girls wanted to wear the most. I had my first, a long, flouncy gown of pink gauze with a lace-up bodice and full, sheer sleeves, in 1975. My mother, who was by then a widow who had to watch what she spent, said I could have the dress, but with its large price tag of (gasp) $40, I would "wear it for concerts, my prom, my wedding, and I would be buried in it" ...stated as a commandment.
Later, with my own hard-earned money I managed to buy a couple more Gunnes.
Me, c. 1980, in one of my much-loved Gunne Sax
Here I am in my mother's home in the last of the three Gunne Sax outfits I wore when they were new. This was a prairie girl set of skirt and peplum blouse, c. 1980. Sorry the photo is no better, but it was taken by a boyfriend catching me off guard who said "wow, you look great in that!" to which my mother replied, "you'd even like her in a gunny sack!" We laughed while my mother looked bewildered—she didn’t realize it was a Gunne Sax!
Here are the labels from some of the items I’ve sold: 1969/70, 1970s/early 80s, 1970s skirt, late 1970s, 1980s. You can see many more in the Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource.
I think it's interesting to see how girls now wear vintage Gunne Sax...these have touched several generations of romantics! Here's a round up of a few found on Chictopia:
Courtesy of Sapsorrow
Courtesy of AmberLucas
Courtesy of EllePhoto
Courtesy of starshipnarcissus
Courtesy of novavintage
Courtesy of 23freckles
This is Rie (@welldressedethcist on Instagram), who is a connoisseur of vintage Gunne Sax, wearing one that she got from me. I love how this new generation of expressive dressers have made Gunnies their own!
Courtesy of @welldressedethicist
Round sunglasses, Converse tennis shoes, lavender hair, plaid coat, prim hat...how do you style your Gunne Sax? Are you new to Gunnies, or did you wear them the first time around?
For some behind-the-scenes information on the founding of Gunne Sax, please see this article from the Vintage Traveler Blog:
Hollywood Cerise Pink—technically Hex Color #ED0990
Oh, I know there are well-researched and ever-so-vetted Pantone colors of the year, but it seems there is always a color pulling me in a different direction. This year, their color is Greenery, and it's quite lovable. It seems to evoke a feeling of hope. (It was chosen before those November elections!)
For me this year it’s Hollywood Cerise Pink. There is a femininity in pink (since the 1930s anyway), and there is an urgency in bright pink. It seems not only a beautiful hue but a necessary one. Fearlessly feminine.
Feast your eyes on shades of Hollywood Cerise Pink from vintage sellers on Etsy. As of today these are currently for sale and the links are in my Etsy favorites collection on the subject.
Face it...Hollywood Cerise is not just a color, it's an attitude!
I recently had the good fortune to renew an old online acquaintance with Debbie, who has a remarkable vintage fashion collection. Someday I may have the opportunity to show you more of Deb's collection but for now, it's plenty to feast your eyes on her collection of 1950s Lady and the Tramp and Si and Am skirts. She has 21 (!).
These skirts were homemade from cotton printed in 1955. The fabric was licensed by Disney, originally sold at J.C. Penney, and coincided with the release of Disney's Lady and the Tramp animated feature-length film. Although the skirts are now coveted and highly valued, Debbie told me that the fabric was originally just 59 cents per yard. From the yardage, the seamstress would cut out the flaring panels and sew them together to create her skirt.
The seamstress had to add her own waistband, so the skirts can have waistbands that slightly differ from the skirt colors. The number of panels vary and so do the lengths as the skirts were hemmed and sized for girls and women both. Debbie even has a Lady and the Tramp skirt in which every bit is embellished with hand-sewn decorations. The "dog" skirts can be found in red, black and turquoise; the "cat" skirts are in pink, black and brown. She loves to wear these on trips to the Disney parks.
Debbie lets her great nieces share her skirts, and when they match at Disney, they are "just too much fun to be ignored."
Debbie and her grand nieces at (where else?) Disney
I've only met Debbie online, but she has impressed me so much with her joyful spirit. Now 63, she has no trouble donning the Disney mouse ears and taking a twirl with Pluto!
In her mid-50s, Deb took on the important task of raising of her 9-year old great niece; she has worked as a court reporter for the State of Nevada Public Utilities Commission for almost 44 years. Debbie isn't a woman of leisure, so when she gets to "play" she does so with gusto!
She and her significant other Rick attend car shows together with their vintage autos. Women she knows are bored going to the car shows, but she loves the shows, thoroughly knows their cars and makes a big deal of wearing her vintage finery for these events. Debbie not only dresses up, she brings along dolls with clothing custom-made to match her vintage fashions. She says that the children especially love the dolls!
Debbie's vintage collection focuses on her favorite time in fashion, 1947-57, the Dior era. She has couture items, a Hawaiian collection, Hollywood costumes. More that leaves me in awe: She has so many vintage pairs of shoes that she can't count them all. She has over 350 vintage hats.
In case it wasn't already apparent, Debbie, even in her 60s, is a bit of a bombshell. She has the figure to wear vintage well and the savoir faire to pull it off. Most of all, it is obvious that she is having fun. She says "these skirts make me so incredibly happy!" There is not a stuffy bone in Debbie's body.
While Debbie's favorite of the skirts is the red Lady and the Tramp, I am partial to the pink Si and Am skirt. When I saw this great photo, I had to let her know how big a smile it put on my face.
She told me there is a story to go with this photo:
That trip we were in Disneyland with 4 adult couples, and when I walked into Disneyland I saw Minnie. Rick asked me if I wanted my photo taken with her—because he KNOWS I adore photos with the characters—but she had a very long line of guests, and I didn’t want to hold everyone up in my group to get a photo. As I was walking towards Main Street someone tapped me on the shoulder...and it was Minnie. She had left her line and run over to me, and she pointed at my skirt, put her hands on her heart, swayed back and forth, turned me around towards Rick for a photo, put her hands on her heart again, and ran back to her line. I was absolutely on Cloud 9...my Disney Magic Moment!
So many people admire her skirts at Disney, and so many of the Disney character performers show their appreciation at seeing these. What a wonderful use of Debbie's collection, bringing such pleasure to herself and others!
All photos courtesy of Debra Bartgis.
Oh no, they're back! I hope it doesn't seem OLD HAT to a-DRESS this with you!
I am positively obsessed with vintage Valentines, the type with great drawings and puns—"I can TELEVISION when I see one, you're on the CHANNEL to my heart"—you know the type?
My vintage clothing photos are ones I had on hand that all made GRAPE sense to PEAR with the vintage Valentines.
{FRANK-ly, you'd better have the sound up for Sinatra!}
No, it’s not the Grateful Dead in concert, the depths of a bear market, or a no-longer-with-us cow—at least not in this context.
If you shop for vintage fashion online, you will have run across the word deadstock, and maybe wondered at its meaning.
According to Collins English Dictionary, deadstock is “the merchandise or commodities of a shop, etc, that is unsold and generating no income.” Some dictionaries separate the word (dead stock), others do not include the term at all. It is, apparently, a business term that has crept into the general lexicon.
If it sounds pejorative, it’s because that’s its history: Items that couldn’t be or weren’t sold were “dead” to the seller, needing to be stored and of relatively little value. These items would sell for a song if at all.
Then came eBay and lots of people started looking for the words to describe a vintage (or at least not new) item that was apparently unused. Other terms that surface often:
New Old Stock (usually abbreviated NOS)
With Tags
Unused
Virgin
Now you know where this is headed: Deadstock is nothing like a pejorative when associated with vintage fashion! Who wouldn’t want to be the first wearer of some vintage finery? It is the livest of the live!
Notice that I haven’t mentioned the term mint condition? To be mint, an item has to be in a state as if it had just come off the assembly line—like new. So many items that still have tags were not stored well or in some way show signs of their age. I’ve noted rust stains from hangers, sun fading, musty odors, dusty hemlines...even coffee splatters and insect holes. Vintage in mint condition is a bit rare.
I am fortunate to come across unused vintage fashion pieces now and then. So often they come to me in groups because one woman will have collected a number of items that she didn’t wear. She might have bought several of a single great piece because she loved it, then didn’t get around to wearing the alternates. Maybe she went to a sale and purchased more than she needed. Maybe she bought the size she hoped she’d achieve. For whatever reason, some people seem to have collected items that they did not use.
One of the greatest joys of finding deadstock vintage is seeing the hangtags and labels. These can give original store names, prices, sizes, fabrics and fabric care...not to mention the artwork!
I often write in my Etsy listing for a deadstock item, “This item has gone unused, through no fault of its own,” because so often the piece is really fantastic.
This 1950s Hawaiian sundress is one of the deadstock (and in this case mint condition) items in my shop right now. I honestly can’t believe it hasn’t been used!
Some of the other deadstock items ready to come alive (click to see shop listing):
I have recently added a deadstock 1960s vintage shirt to my own closet. Its price tag, from one of my city’s late-great department stores, shows a price of $1.00. I am saving that little tag and hope to make a necklace from it, to wear with the shirt. You see the only problem I have with deadstock is that I don’t ever want to lose those interesting tags!
On Friday I made a second donation to Dress for Success Worldwide. It felt really good.
On November 10, 2016, I opened a shop-within-a-shop in my Etsy store, the Pink Heart Shop. 100% of the proceeds from this shop go to Dress for Success. So far, all thanks to my wonderful customers, I have been able to donate $297. I have had a lot of really positive responses.
A few of the diverse vintage items in my Pink Heart Shop right now
Many I know have been inspired to live their convictions in the wake of the November elections, and I’d like to highlight one person in particular. She is a friend—a vintage connoisseur with a penchant for 1950s styles—who has consigned many beautiful vintage fashion items with me. We made an agreement about her percentage of each sale. This partnership has been going on for years.
When she heard about my Pink Heart Shop sales, my friend asked if I would add some of her items to the Shop, which I did. Later she came back with this:
I’m wondering if you would consider taking the rest of the items I sent and just donating my portion of the sales to Dress for Success?
What do you mean? There are many, many items...
I mean that the items are yours and 100% of what you receive that would have come to me can go to Dress 4 Success.
It is a good, even great, cause. I believe in helping other women grow & grow & grow.
And that’s the point of the cause. According to their About Us page, “Dress for Success is an international not-for-profit organization that empowers women to achieve economic independence by providing a network of support, professional attire and the development tools to help women thrive in work and in life.
Since starting operations in 1997, Dress for Success has expanded to almost 145 cities in 21 countries and has helped more than 925,000 women work towards self-sufficiency.”
Dress for Success photo
(My friend Tweets and Pins as Spiritual Feminist—you should check her out. This is her website.)
Friday I made a donation, yesterday I took part in the Women’s March on Spokane.
I have also just donated 10% of proceeds on all non-Pink Heart Shop items to Save the Manatee Club, to help protect this beloved endangered species. This too is ongoing for me.
Human rights, the environment, public health, education... There is a lot at stake right now. In fact, one of my favorite signs from the march yesterday read TOO MANY ISSUES TO FIT ON A SIGN.
But many people (like my generous friend) give me hope.
Photo by me (Margaret Wilds)
As promised in my last post, this is the better news side of 2016 here at denisebrain.
First, I have never had so many great vintage items to offer. My storage units runneth over! And I have a new friend with a passion for vintage who has helped me with the hanging and organization. (Thank you, Fay!—If you are in Spokane, you should go visit her space at Chosen Vintage.)
Then there is the book, which I had planned to publish in November. You know when you really want to do something and for some reason you aren’t getting it done? Something was up with me, and I figured out what it was: The book is missing a couple of sections to make it a complete beginners' guide to vintage from my perspective. I am now progressing without that weird feeling of being held back. It’s back to being an exciting prospect.
Then there is the new website, which is thiscloseto being ready. [edit 2/1/17: You're looking at it now!] I know Google has it right about people using mobile devices to search, and I know my old website is not terribly mobile-friendly. This old Neanderthal is finally about to stand up straight! Expect lots of pink (duh!).
Next comes the annual end-of-the-year roundup of favorite items sold. Perhaps you will see something that now hangs in your closet—If so, I hope it’s making you happy!
I love, I mean LOVE seeing customers in their purchases! In fact, I’m devoting a section of the new website to customer images. (If you’ve been holding out on me, now’s the time to make right!)
This 1970s Gunne Sax dress went to a great connoisseur of GS dresses, Rie (thewelldressedethicist on IG)
Kymi (kymijojo on IG) staged a prom birthday party, and wore this princess-y 1950s gown like a true princess
For her birthday, the colorful Sophia (sophiamzell on IG) wore this 1960s party dress
This 1940s New York Creations hat went straight to the head of the elegant Eliza (vintagerosegirl on IG):
(As you can probably tell, I’m doing more over on Instagram this year. If you’re there, stop by and say hi to me @denisebrain_vintage)
Some favorites that found new homes this year:
Starting on September 7, 2016, I began setting aside
10% of sales for saving endangered manatees.
I’ve been called the Manatee Lady, and I thought I might as well prove it with every sale.
Then, on November 10, I opened a shop-within-a-shop in my Etsy store.
has vintage fashion with
100% of sales going to Dress for Success Worldwide.
The contributions I have been able to make to these causes so far make what I do even more worthwhile to me, and the support customers have expressed literally keeps me going some days.
If you read my previous post, you know it hasn’t been the easiest year for me, but I am fortunate in so many ways. For someone with health issues, having a good team is something to cherish. I have a wonderful, supportive partner in my husband John. I have good doctors. I have caring friends and family. That would be plenty, but I also have the distant but real friendship and kindness of customers and colleagues in the vintage world. You all lift me up.
So goodbye to 2016...
...and hello to a new year of hope, health, joy, and love for us all!
My best to you, Maggie of denisebrain